Key West Travelogue

After our fourth visit to The Conch Republic (cruise ship stop in '05, Spring Break in '06, '07, & '10), I've decided to take advantage of this little forum and jot down this travelogue. Not exactly an insider's guide, but more like Key West viewed through the eyes of a repeat offender. An opening word: SUNSCREEN! Seriously.

A little about my vacation style: I consider myself more a traveler than a tourist. I want to know where the locals eat, like to walk/bike around, and really get a "feel" for where I am. I like a good tourist attraction, but get great pleasure going on, as Pooh put it, "an explore." I prefer active over passive, local over chain. I'm not above a trip to Disney or stepping on board a cruise ship, but I'm really in my element discovering the out-of-the way, especially if food's involved. Put it this way: I think Guy Fieri, the host of "Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives" has the greatest job in the history of the world.

So, Key West. My wife's birthplace. We first realized we loved the place when our cruise ship docked there April 7, 2005-Tamar's birthday. First time she'd been back since infancy. As we explored, we started to wonder if we really had to get back on the boat. We were smitten.

Getting There
Our three trips to KW, we've flown direct. Yes, it's more expensive, but by the time you add up rental car from Miami, and the time it takes to drive (Miami is 155 miles from KW, Lauderdale's even farther), it's a wash in my book. We've spoken to folks who've made the drive. It's long, flat, and not all that interesting. AirTran has opened up service to KW, and on our 2010 trip, they were under Delta by hundreds per ticket. Slight layover in Orlando, but nothing too long. Note to white-knuckle flyers: EYW is a small airfield. Yes, you'll be walking across the tarmac. AirTran's flying 737s in and out. As our pilot put it: "The landing may be more firm than what you are accustomed to." It's really not that bad, but neither is it LAX smooth. Once you've got your luggage, it's $7/person on the taxi to get where you're going, and you'll be there in 15 minutes tops.
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Where To Stay
Best answer-A friend's house. Seriously, KW hotel rates can be comparable to NYC if you're not careful. Our three trips have found us staying at three different places.

2006. The Southern Cross. If you really want to be in the thick of it all, it's tough to top The Southern Cross. This is the oldest hotel on Key West, and is right off of Duval Street. It's also surprisingly affordable. Very quaint, very comfortable. We enjoyed our stay here. Only one slight drawback: while it is surprisingly quiet given its location, if someone decides to cruise Duval Street with the subwoofers blaring from their ride, you'll know it. But you absolutely cannot beat the price, the location, or the helpfulness of the innkeeper.

2010. The Fairfield Inn. This was one of the most pleasant surprises I've ever had in lodging. You're thinking "A Fairfield? Really?" Well, it was recommended by a former Key Wester, and she was dead-on. We had a suite for $179/night, almost unheard of on Key West. Free breakfast, and not just muffins & coffee. Hot and cold cereal, hard boiled eggs, fresh fruit, muffins, bagels, toast, Jimmy Dean sandwiches, coffee, juice, milk, and make-your-own Belgian waffles. For our family of three, this saved $25-$35/day, easily. The staff is outrageously attentive, wonderful pool, close to stuff you can actually use, like stores and restaurants, great bar, our room was uber-quiet, and nice and dark at night. So what's the catch? Well, it is 2 miles from Duval. Actually, not a bad walk, and the city bus is nearby. Rent a bike or a scooter and you're golden. The only blemish on our stay was the sleeper sofa that Amanda would have used. The single worst sleeper sofa I have ever encountered. The first night, she wound up sleeping in the king bed w/ Tamar & me. But, when I brought it up to the manager next morning, he sent someone to a local store, bought and inflated an air mattress for Amanda, and knocked $50 off the first night's stay. From there on out, smooth sailing. If you take a suite, and intend on putting someone on the sleeper sofa, I suggest bringing an air mattress. Well worth it. But, as I said, otherwise a fantastic stay.
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Getting Around
Key West is a small place. Frankly, most of our visits, we've hoofed it. The entire island is roughly 2 miles by 4 miles, and you can walk the entirety of Duval in 25 minutes at a leisurely pace. Cabs are abundant, but to me, a pricey way to get around. I'd rather walk off my dinner.

For a first time visit, you can get a great overview of the island by taking the Conch Tour Train. Touristy, yeah, but a great introduction and a nice way to build a list of things you'd like to do. Crowded when the cruise ships are in dock, but they do add trains to keep up with demand.

Everywhere you turn, there's places to rent bicycles, scooters, and electric cars. The electric cars get pricey in a hurry. I'll typically take a day or two to rent a scooter. A 50cc scooter capable of carrying driver and passenger will run around $50 a day. Some places, particularly on-site at a hotel are more expensive. No real recommendations here, although I did have a very pleasant experience renting from Fun Rentals. Rusty is a great guy, very easy to work with. Right next door to The Fairfield Inn. There is no helmet law, but that's your decision. Me, I wear a helmet on my bicycle, so I've got no problem w/ a scooter helmet.

The best way to get around larger chunks of the island is the Key West bus system. My father is convinced, (and I agree with him) that the city does its best to keep the inner workings of the bus system hidden from tourists, so as not to tick off the cabbies. My advice to you? Grab a copy of the bus schedule, get to know it, and pony up the $8 for a weekly pass. The buses do vary, from dead-on-time to island time, but once you know the system, it's a great way to get where you're going cheaply.
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Duval Street
Let's talk about Duval Street. This is the most touristy area of town. Margaritaville, The Hard Rock Cafe, Coach, Chico's and many other "any-given-mall" shops can be found here. There's also local fixtures like Sloppy Joe's, and a bunch o' bars. If pub crawling is your thing, you'll be in heaven. Warning-when the cruise ships are docked, Duval can be like Disney on a bad day. That is if Disney were overflowing with alcohol and questionable t-shirts. However, get one block off Duval, and the tranquility quickly returns.

As you travel south down Duval, you'll encounter a great many galleries. Some of these galleries wouldn't be out of place in NYC. (The Wyland gallery comes to mind.) There are also many galleries that feature the work of local artists, often at great prices. One of my favorite discoveries was that of CC Key, a self-taught FL artist who has a great side business in selling her hand-painted wood plaques entitled "Change The Rules." A delightful piece of affordable original art. One hangs on our wall.

For an awesome selection of local artists all in one place, try the Guild Hall Gallery. From handmade knick-knacks at a souvenir price point, to fine art costing thousands, it's all here. And it's all local.

One of our favorite shops to stop into is Key West Aloe. Wonderful products, made with lots of aloe. You're gonna need it!

A magnet for the young girls: Hair Wraps of Key West. Amanda has taken advantage of their services on more than one occasion. They do excellent work. If the cruise ships are in, they're mobbed. But, you can make reservations.
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Where to Eat
Oh. My. Goodness. This is why I like to walk around Key West. So much good food to be had. If you've got fussy eaters, you can find chains and franchises, but why oh why would you do that?
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Breakfast
Two places spring to mind. Let's start with Pepe's. They are the oldest restaurant on Key West, doesn't look like anything from the outside, but the breakfast is excellent and the prices are reasonable. This is a very traditional place, almost diner comfort food. They serve an awesome homemade granola with yogurt and fruit that'll power you up for the rest of the day, along with great omelets and a delighftul fruit cup (benefits of being in the tropics).

Down on the docks, you'll find Turtle Kraals. This restaurant and bar serves great food all day, but I'm partial to the breakfast, mainly because compared to the rest of the menu, it's the best bang for the buck. Menu a little more upscale that Pepe's, but still with that hometown feel. Plus the added attraction of watching the boats come and go.
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Lunch
When I'm on Key West, lunch tends to be a grab-on-the-go affair, esserntially whatever strikes my fancy. There are a few places, though that strike it more regularly. Many of my later dinner suggestions are also decent for lunch.

On our most recent trip, I made a most pleasant discovery. Out on N. Roosevelt, near The Fairfield Inn is a rather non-descript Winn-Dixie plaza. In that plaza is a trio of outstanding little local joints, all in a row. Hong Kong, Ray's Pizza, and Goldman's Deli. You might walk by any of them, but trust me, these places serve great food. Any of them are great lunch choices, with Hong Kong and Ray's also being excellent dinner choices

The sandwiches at Goldman's Deli are amazing. Five of us went out on a snorkeling trip. I ordered 3 sandwiches (ham, turkey, roast beef) to bring in a cooler. We had leftovers. Freshly made, plled high. Not cheap, but very fairly priced for what you get.

Speaking of neighborhood joints, Ray's Pizza also impressed. Thye don't even have their own website, the decor makes a bus stop look plush, but man do they make great food. The sauce on their parmesan subs is one of the better ones I've had. They make a "calzone for two." Two linebackers, perhaps. Huge, and yummy!

On Duval Street itself there is an excellent pizza place: The Upper Crust. Small place, but great food.

Also on Duval Street, right behind the Hog's Breath, is a great little street side hamburger shack that serves one of the best burgers and best hotdogs I've ever eaten. Wish I could recall the name. Tiny little thing. Also has awesome hand-cut fries.
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Snacks & nibbles
Kohr Bros. Frozen Custard. This soft-serve ice cream style treat is incredibly tasty, and really hits the spot right around 2pm.

Another great spot for frozen treats: Gelato on Duval. Wonderful stuff. We had pistachio and Bulgarian cream. Excellent.

Staying with sweets: Key Lime Pie. My favorite: The Blond Giraffe. Consistent winner of "Best Key Lime Pie in FL," and for good reason. If you've never had real Key Lime Pie (and not the green abomination that passes for it elsewhere), you must try pie from The Blond Giraffe. Exquisite. Used to be made right on Key West, but growth has pushed the factory to Pompano. Still awesome. Latest addition: Key Lime Pie Cookies. Every bit as good.

Another place to pick up Key Lime Pie is Kermit's. I prefer The Blond Giraffe, for straight up pie, but I give the nod to Kermit's for frozen, chocolate covered pie-on-a-stick, as well as their Key Lime candies, and amazing selection of spices, rubs and sauces.

Happy Hour has become something of a big deal on the island. On of the best places to turn a big snack into a meal on the cheap is Alonzo's Oyster Bar. Located under the more upscale Key West icon A&B Lobster House, Alonzo's features an incredible 4pm to 6:30pm Happy Hour where everything on this menu page, as well as ALL drinks, are half price. You can seriously make a meal out of this for next to nothing. Great conch fritters.
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Dinner
Many of the places I mentioned for lunch make a fine dinner. Here are some places to consider for the evening meal.

The Conch Republic Seafood Company has a great open-air vibe and serves some excellent food. Good for dinner, or a quick drink, or lunch. One of the best meals I've had here (or anywhere for that matter) was when we brought them our catch from a fishing charter trip. For a fixed $13/person they prepared it three ways (fried/baked/blackened), and served it with rice and veggies. Our fish was no more than 5-6 hours out of the water, and they served it up beautifully.

Located in the very same building that gave birth to Pan-Am airlines, Kelly's Caribbean lets you dine under the trees, enjoy the weather, and their fine brewed-on-premises beers. As you might guess, this does make them the southernmost brewing facility in the U.S. I'm partial to the Southern Clipper Wheat. The Golden Ale is refreshing, and the Havana Red has a nice heft to it. Food wise, Kelly's really shines on pasta. Try the Lobster Ravioli.

If you're looking for truly fine dining, I heartily recommend Pisces. How fine? When I ate there in 2007, I turned around at my window seat to look outside, absentmindedly placing my elbow on the windowsill. I turned back to the table. Later, I turned to look out the window again. This time, a linen napkin had been placed on the window sill for me to rest my arm on. The food here is stellar, the prsentation is top notch, and the service is capital-A Attentive. You get what you pay for. Put it this way: The night after five of us ate at Pisces, we all went to Alonzo's for Happy Hour. What we paid for the tip at Pisces covered the cost of the entire meal at Alonzo's, give or take $5. But, I'm not complaining. Pisces is truly fine dining, and they deliver. In spades. Unforgettable evening. You'll want to dress up slightly. It is Key West, though, and resort wear qualifies as formal! I went in a Key West (Hawaiian-style) shirt and khakis and felt right at home.
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Things To Do
There is so much to do on Key West that if you're not careful, you'll lose track of what a vacation is supposed to be. I'll just be reviewing things that I've done personally. I've already mentioned the Conch Tour Train, back in the Getting Around section. It is a dynamite overview.

The ticketing for the Conch Tour Train is managed by Historic Tours of America. They also handle ticketing for a fair number of the island's other attractions worth going to. In fact, you can save some money with the various packages they offer. I've been to The Truman House, Key West Aquarium, and the Shipwreck Museum. All worthwhile.

The Truman House is a great Presidential museum, filled with fascinating artifacts like Truman's now-you-see-it, now-you-don't Poker Table. The Little White House has been lovingly restored, and the guides are most knowledgeable.

The Key West Aquarium is a small aquarium, the first open-air aquarium in America. It may be small, but you'll learn a ton. Definitely be there for the tours and feedings. The touch tank is delightful. You'll have a chance to pick up marine hermit crabs, horseshoe crabs, conchs and starfish. You'll find sea turtles, sharks, rays, and much more. One of the attractions that we've visited on multiple visits.

The most pleasant surprise we've had from a tourist attraction is the Shipwreck Museum. When you first see it, you'll think "Man, how hokey can you get?" But trust me, this place is fascinating. The little ones will be entertained, and the grownups will learn a great deal about the history of the city that has been both the wealthiest city in America, and the poorest. You'll find out that there's always been a fine line between pirates and legitimate businesses.

Speaking of pirates, we really enjoyed Pat Croce's Pirate Soul Museum. (UPDATE May 2011)Sadly, Pat's moved the museum 8.5 hours up the road to St. Augustine. Still, check out the link, and if you're in the St. Auguistine area, it's a must.

I have to admit, I was a little disappointed in the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum. When we were there (admittedly a few years back), it seemed that the exhibits were in disrepair, and I felt like the main purpose was to get me to buy something from the Atocha find. Perhaps that's changed. Some great diplays of immense historical value, but something just didn't click for me.

I have not been to the Hemmingway Home, but my father assures me it is well worth while. A historic home that I did enjoy very much was The Audobon House. Not a house that Audobon actually owned, but rather a place where spent time as a guest, and did some of his painting. Beautifully restored.

More great Key West history can be found att the Key West Lighthouse Museum. The Key West Arts & Historical Society really makes the old lighthouse come alive.

The Arts & Historical Society also maintains the Fort East Martello Museum & Gardens. This is an excellent thing to do on your way out of Key West. Show up to the airport a bit early, check your luggage, and walk across to the Fort. Just beware of the decidedly creepy doll, Robert.

Do take the time to check out Fort Zachary Taylor State Park. Great beach, and the tour of the fort (included in admission) is very informative. Depending on the time of year, you can also find some interesting public art exhibits.

On the way in to Fort Zachary Taylor State Park, you'll find the Florida Keys Eco-Discovery Center. This museum, operated by NOAA gives a great overview of ecology of the surrounding area, and best of all, it's free. Closed on Sunday and Monday.

For more active pursuits, there are dozens of opportunities to snorkel, kayak, etc. On our 2010 trip, we hopped the Lower Keys Shuttle up to Marathon Key, and went out snorkeling with Spirit Snorkeling. Captain Dave & First Mate Floyd were fantastic guides, and snorkeling on Sombrero Reef is like swimming in a fishtank. Be sure to make reservations.

A lot of the attractions on Key West try to appeal to the Spring Break/Cruise Ship/Party Hearty crowd. If that's what you're into, go for it. But for me, I was very thankful that Blue Planet Kayak is not that kind of place. Their Eco-tour is relaxed, friendly, and highly informative. Most of the time, you're kayaking in less than 2 feet of water as you explore the mangroves. They'll even pick you up from your hotel. HIGHLY recommended, but call ahead for reservations.

Fishing
Of course, if you're in Key West, there are abundant opportunities to fish. There are so many fishing charters to choose from, it's mind-boggling. I can tell you we did enjoy the two we've used: Fish Check Charters, and Too Lethal. In fact, Too Lethal was the boat we used when we had our great meal at The Conch Republic Seafood Company. Capt. Scott docks near the restaurant. You can get off the boat, hand The Conch Republic your catch, and let 'em know when you'll be back for dinner!

And, at the end of the day, there's, well, the end of the day. The Sunset Celebration at Mallory Square is a certifiable hoot. Vendors, food, street performers (some of whom are VERY good), and basically just a great atmosphere. If you want to get some great photos, I suggest lining up dockside about 25 minutes before sunset to stake your place. Otherwise, wander around, enjoy the sights, and celebrate another day in paradise.

I guess thats about it. I hope you enjoyed this tropical jaunt as much as I have. Something to add? Something to correct? Shoot me an email..